First ice cream recipe in America
First ice cream recipe inAmerica
According to the venerable food historian Karen Hess, the first ice cream recipe published in the United States appeared in The New Art of Cookery, According to the Present Practice/Richard Briggs, circa 1792. This recipe is almost exactly the same as Mrs. Raffald's (see below). Ms. Hess observes: "the first American recipe that I know of that features vanilla on its own is one for vanilla ice cream in Mary Randolph's The Virginia Housewife, 1824; similar recipes had, however been appearing in France, and Jefferson brought back one in 1784, showing once again how tht printed word lags behind usage." Source: Martha Washington's Booke of Cookery, transcribed by Karen Hess [Columbia University Press:New York
[About vanilla.]
Our survey of 18th-early 19th century English and American cookbooks confirms fruit ice creams were probably the most popular. Most cookbooks of the day contained several recipes for flavored creams, including one recipe especially for ice cream. In theory, any sweet cream recipe could be processed to become ice cream. Most period cookbooks note that any type of fruit may be used.
Which flavors were available in the 18th century?
People have been adding flavors to ice/ice cream right from the beginning! Ice cream began as granita (ice). This product was often flavored with fruit or honey. In the 18th century when the first ice creams (as we know them today) were produced, they were likewise flavored. Period recipes are excellent indicators of popular flavorings:
"To make Ice Cream. Pare, stone, and scald twelve ripe apricots, beat them in a fine marble mortar. Put to them six ounces of double-refined sugar, a pint of scalding cream, work it through a hair sieve. Put it into a tin that has a close cover, when you see your cream grow thick round the edges of your tin, stir it, and set it again till all grows quite thick. When your cream is to be turned out of, then put on the lid. Have ready another tub with ice and salt in as before, put your mould in the middle and lay your ice under and over it, let it stand four or five hours. Dip your tin in warm water when you turn it out. If it be summer you must not turn it out til the moment you want it. You may use any sort of fruit if you nave not apricots, only observe to work it fine."
---The Experienced English Housekeeper, Elizabeth Raffald, facsimile 1769 edition with an introduction by Roy Shipperbottom [Southover Press:East Sussex ] 1997 (p. 126) [NOTE: Mrs. Raffald's other fruit cream (non-ice) recipes employ lemon, raspberry, and orange. She also offers recipes for pistachio and chocolate cream.]
[1780s] Thomas Jefferson's French ice cream
[1792]
Ice Creams. Take a dozen ripe apricots, pare them very thin and stone them, scald and put them into a mortar, and beat them fine; put to them six ounces of double refined sugar, a pint of scalding cream, and rub it through a sieve with the back of a spoon; then put it into a tine with a close cover, and set it in a tub of ice broken small, with four handsful of salt mixt among the ice; when you see your cream get thick round the edges of your tin, stir it well, and put it in again till it becomes quite thick; when the cream is all froze up, take it out of the tin, and put it into the mould you intend to turn it out of: mind that you put a piece of paper on each end, between the lids and the ice cream, put on the top lid, and have another tub of ice ready, as before, put the mould in the middle, with the ice under and over it; let it stand four hours, and do not turn it out before you want it; then dip the mould into cold spring water, take off the lids and paper, and turn it into a plate. You may do any sort of fruit the same way."The New Art of Cookery, According to the Present Practice, Richard Briggs [W. Spotswood, R. Campbell, and B. Jonhson:Philadelphia PA
[1824]
Ice Creams. When ice creams are not put into shapes, they should always be served in glasses with handles.
Vanilla Cream. Boil a vanilla bean in a quart of rich milk until it has imparted the flavour sufficently; then take it out, and mix with the milk, eight eggs, yelks and whites, beaten well; let it boil a little longer--make it very sweet, for much of the sugar is lost in the operation of freezing."
Raspberry Cream. Make a quart of rich boiled custard; when cold, pour it on a quart or ripe red raspberries, mash them tin it, pass it through a sieve, sweeten and freeze it."
Peach Cream. Get fine soft peaches, perfectly ripe, peel them, take out the stones, and put them in a China bowl; sprinkle some sugar on and chop them very small, with a silver spoon; if the peaches be sufficiently ripe, they will become a smooth pulp; add as much cream or rich milk as you have peaches; put more sugar and freeze it."
Citron Cream. Cut the finest citron melons, when perfectly ripe, take out the seeds and slice the nicest part into a China bowl, in smal pieces, that will lie conveniently, cover them with powdered sugar, and let them stand several hours, then drain off the syrup they have made, and add as much cream as it will give a strong flavour to, and freez it. Pine apples may be used in the same way."
Observations on Ice Cream. It is the practice with some indolent cooks, to set the freezer, containing the cream, in a tub wtih ice and salt, and put it in the ice-house; it will certainly freeze there, but not until the watery particles have subsided, and by the separation destroyed the cream. A freezer should be twelve or fourteen inches deep, and eight or ten wide. This facilitates the operation very much, by giving a larger surface for the ice to form, which it always does on the sides of the vessel; a silver spoon, with a long handle, should be provided for scraping the ice from the sides, as soon as formed, and when the whole is congealed, pack it in moulds (which must be placed with care, lest they should not be upright,) in ice and salt till sufficiently hard to retain the shape--they should not be turned out till the moment they are to be served. The freezing tub must be wide enough to leave a margin of four or five inches all around the freezer when placed in the middle, which must be filled up with small lumps of ice mixed with salt--a larger tub would waste the ice. The freezer must be kept constatnly in motion during the process, and ought to be made of pewter, which is less liable than tin to be worn in holes and spoil the cream by admitting the salt water."
---TheVirginia Houswewife, Mary Randolph, facsimile 1824 edition with historical notes and commentaries by Karen Hess [University of South Carolina Press :Columbia SC
First ice cream recipe in
According to the venerable food historian Karen Hess, the first ice cream recipe published in the United States appeared in The New Art of Cookery, According to the Present Practice/Richard Briggs, circa 1792. This recipe is almost exactly the same as Mrs. Raffald's (see below). Ms. Hess observes: "the first American recipe that I know of that features vanilla on its own is one for vanilla ice cream in Mary Randolph's The Virginia Housewife, 1824; similar recipes had, however been appearing in France, and Jefferson brought back one in 1784, showing once again how tht printed word lags behind usage." Source: Martha Washington's Booke of Cookery, transcribed by Karen Hess [Columbia University Press:
[About vanilla.]
Our survey of 18th-early 19th century English and American cookbooks confirms fruit ice creams were probably the most popular. Most cookbooks of the day contained several recipes for flavored creams, including one recipe especially for ice cream. In theory, any sweet cream recipe could be processed to become ice cream. Most period cookbooks note that any type of fruit may be used.
Which flavors were available in the 18th century?
People have been adding flavors to ice/ice cream right from the beginning! Ice cream began as granita (ice). This product was often flavored with fruit or honey. In the 18th century when the first ice creams (as we know them today) were produced, they were likewise flavored. Period recipes are excellent indicators of popular flavorings:
[1747]
"To make ice cream. Take two pewter basons, one larger than the other; the inward one must have a close cover, into which you are to put your cream, and mix it with raspberries, or whatver you like best, to give it a flavour and a colour. Sweeten it to you palate; then cover it close, and set it into the larger bason. Fill it with ice, and a handful of salt: let it stand in this ice three quarters of an hour, then uncover it, and stir the cream well together: cover it close again, and let is stand half an hour longer, after that turn it into your plate. These things are made at the pewterers."
---The Art of Cookery Made Plain & Easy, Hannah Glasse, facsimile of the first edition, 1747 [Prospect Books:Devon ] 1995 (p. 168)
[1769]"To make ice cream. Take two pewter basons, one larger than the other; the inward one must have a close cover, into which you are to put your cream, and mix it with raspberries, or whatver you like best, to give it a flavour and a colour. Sweeten it to you palate; then cover it close, and set it into the larger bason. Fill it with ice, and a handful of salt: let it stand in this ice three quarters of an hour, then uncover it, and stir the cream well together: cover it close again, and let is stand half an hour longer, after that turn it into your plate. These things are made at the pewterers."
---The Art of Cookery Made Plain & Easy, Hannah Glasse, facsimile of the first edition, 1747 [Prospect Books:
"To make Ice Cream. Pare, stone, and scald twelve ripe apricots, beat them in a fine marble mortar. Put to them six ounces of double-refined sugar, a pint of scalding cream, work it through a hair sieve. Put it into a tin that has a close cover, when you see your cream grow thick round the edges of your tin, stir it, and set it again till all grows quite thick. When your cream is to be turned out of, then put on the lid. Have ready another tub with ice and salt in as before, put your mould in the middle and lay your ice under and over it, let it stand four or five hours. Dip your tin in warm water when you turn it out. If it be summer you must not turn it out til the moment you want it. You may use any sort of fruit if you nave not apricots, only observe to work it fine."
---The Experienced English Housekeeper, Elizabeth Raffald, facsimile 1769 edition with an introduction by Roy Shipperbottom [Southover Press:
[1780s] Thomas Jefferson's French ice cream
[1792]
Ice Creams. Take a dozen ripe apricots, pare them very thin and stone them, scald and put them into a mortar, and beat them fine; put to them six ounces of double refined sugar, a pint of scalding cream, and rub it through a sieve with the back of a spoon; then put it into a tine with a close cover, and set it in a tub of ice broken small, with four handsful of salt mixt among the ice; when you see your cream get thick round the edges of your tin, stir it well, and put it in again till it becomes quite thick; when the cream is all froze up, take it out of the tin, and put it into the mould you intend to turn it out of: mind that you put a piece of paper on each end, between the lids and the ice cream, put on the top lid, and have another tub of ice ready, as before, put the mould in the middle, with the ice under and over it; let it stand four hours, and do not turn it out before you want it; then dip the mould into cold spring water, take off the lids and paper, and turn it into a plate. You may do any sort of fruit the same way."The New Art of Cookery, According to the Present Practice, Richard Briggs [W. Spotswood, R. Campbell, and B. Jonhson:
[1824]
Ice Creams. When ice creams are not put into shapes, they should always be served in glasses with handles.
Vanilla Cream. Boil a vanilla bean in a quart of rich milk until it has imparted the flavour sufficently; then take it out, and mix with the milk, eight eggs, yelks and whites, beaten well; let it boil a little longer--make it very sweet, for much of the sugar is lost in the operation of freezing."
Raspberry Cream. Make a quart of rich boiled custard; when cold, pour it on a quart or ripe red raspberries, mash them tin it, pass it through a sieve, sweeten and freeze it."
Peach Cream. Get fine soft peaches, perfectly ripe, peel them, take out the stones, and put them in a China bowl; sprinkle some sugar on and chop them very small, with a silver spoon; if the peaches be sufficiently ripe, they will become a smooth pulp; add as much cream or rich milk as you have peaches; put more sugar and freeze it."
Citron Cream. Cut the finest citron melons, when perfectly ripe, take out the seeds and slice the nicest part into a China bowl, in smal pieces, that will lie conveniently, cover them with powdered sugar, and let them stand several hours, then drain off the syrup they have made, and add as much cream as it will give a strong flavour to, and freez it. Pine apples may be used in the same way."
Observations on Ice Cream. It is the practice with some indolent cooks, to set the freezer, containing the cream, in a tub wtih ice and salt, and put it in the ice-house; it will certainly freeze there, but not until the watery particles have subsided, and by the separation destroyed the cream. A freezer should be twelve or fourteen inches deep, and eight or ten wide. This facilitates the operation very much, by giving a larger surface for the ice to form, which it always does on the sides of the vessel; a silver spoon, with a long handle, should be provided for scraping the ice from the sides, as soon as formed, and when the whole is congealed, pack it in moulds (which must be placed with care, lest they should not be upright,) in ice and salt till sufficiently hard to retain the shape--they should not be turned out till the moment they are to be served. The freezing tub must be wide enough to leave a margin of four or five inches all around the freezer when placed in the middle, which must be filled up with small lumps of ice mixed with salt--a larger tub would waste the ice. The freezer must be kept constatnly in motion during the process, and ought to be made of pewter, which is less liable than tin to be worn in holes and spoil the cream by admitting the salt water."
---The
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